Locksmithing and Security

Lots of new apartment blocks sprang up around here during the boom years, while New Labour was carrying where the previous government left off in its efforts (along with the Americans) to set up the spectacular bust we have just witnessed. (At least the Americans were up-front about having an idiot “running” the executive.)

Anyway the build quality of these blocks, as you would expect, is lamentable. The problem that brings customers to me is the quality of the front door and its furniture. I’ve already mentioned the door furniture, so on to the doors themselves. Chipboard. Even at its best it’s not strong enough to resist a good kicking. At its worst not enough resin of the right formulation will have been used and you’ve effectively got a thin-walled box of sawdust guarding your apartment. Add to that the use of the thinnest door they can get away with and the mortice deadbolt lock will simply burst right out of the door when it’s kicked.

Yesterday, I had to go to a new block where several apartments had been broken into, and where the builder had been as bad as ever and the architect had been even less security-conscious than usual. The doors were chipboard with very little resin. And each pair of apartment doors were closed off from the corridor behind an extra door thus keeping the thieves warm, comfortable, and out of sight and earshot as they kick the apartment door in.

What can you do? You can consider fitting a new solid door of course. You can fit mortice lock strengthening plates, which will help strengthen things a little bit. And if the block is absolutely new, form an action group to harry the architect and builder.

Many insurance policies ask for a mortice lock on the final exit door — the front door for most of us. This is because you can’t bolt the final exit door from the inside if you’re going out, and a rimlatch isn’t particularly secure. (A rim lock is fitted to the face of the door and a mortice lock is fitted within the door.)

So a mortice lock makes sense. Unless, that is, your door isn’t thick enough. To get a mortice lock into the door, you need a hole (the “mortice”). If your door is less than 44 mm thick, then the hole for, say, a Chubb lock weakens the door more than the lock strengthens the door.

(There’s another problem, of course: PVC doors are becoming more and more common, but insurance company personnel aren’t becoming any more intelligent. Many insurance policies don’t consider the completely different locking regime of PVC doors)

Thin doors often come about when Bodgit & Rakeitin carry out a conversion of a house into flats and fit internal quality doors for the flat doors.

What do you do if your insurance company insists that you weaken your front door? Change your insurance provider for one that isn’t exclusively populated by bean-counters and where there’s actually someone who is knowledgeable about security.

And if you’ve got a door that’s hovering around the 42 or 43 mm thickness and it already has a mortice lock, you have to ask yourself if it’s wise to add another mortice lock and put another big hole in it.

I mentioned elsewhere, a front door around where I live, fitted with three high security locks. Yesterday I came across a tiny, insubstantial shed door, where the same triplet of locks had been fitted, two of which were mortice locks!

If you’re booking a locksmith, or any kind of tradesman, I suggest that you let them know in advance if there is no parking whatsoever where you live.

It’s no good hoping that they’re magicians or athletes with no heavy kit or that they’re going to abseil in from a hovering helicopter. If a tradesman arrives and finds, for example, that it’s residents-only parking for half-a-mile in all directions, and that the contact number is permanently engaged, then if said tradesman is less than a level-eight saint, they might just turn around and head straight for their stress therapist. And the customer will have waited in for naught.

If, on the other hand, a customer says, “We’ll need to find a day where you can come around after four-thirty because that’s when the parking restrictions end”, or “I’ve a visitors parking permit for you”, everyone is heading for a positive and enriching experience.

I’ve probably mentioned before what a nice lock the Ingersoll SC71 is. It’s very unusual in that it’s a 10-lever cylinder rimlock. It’s also very secure. Just about no-one can pick it; and it’s very tough to open destructively.

One niggle and one cautionary note though: the quality of the lock body seems to be deteriorating; and the cost of a replacement cylinder sometimes causes people to adapt a cheaper cylinder and use it in place of a new Ingersoll cylinder.

It’s possible to come across old Ingersoll SC71s that are still working after 20 or more years. But these days the lock bodies seem to last less than 10. However, for those 10 years it’s still an excellent lock.

If you have an Ingersoll lock, then before congratulating yourself check the cylinder to ensure that someone hasn’t replaced it with an inferior one. The genuine Ingersoll cylinder is quite unique. It has a slightly domed front, the keyway is wave-shaped and symmetric, and the key is double sided in that, unlike, say, a Yale which would have teeth only down one edge, an Ingersoll key has teeth down both edges (and to help you insert it the right way round, the hole in the bow is offset).