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	<title>Comments on: ERA Nightlatch</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/</link>
	<description>Security advice from a working locksmith and safe engineer</description>
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		<title>By: The Locksmith</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/comment-page-1/#comment-6495</link>
		<dc:creator>The Locksmith</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jun 2011 15:03:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=747#comment-6495</guid>
		<description>I&#039;ll fit the PBS1 if people ask but I&#039;ve stopped recommending them. Guessing at numbers, about 1 in 50 seem to suffer problems with the autodeadlock trigger - mostly not deadlocking the bolt when activated but once or twice deadlocking the bolt when not activated. For the vast amount of money, that&#039;s not robust enough. At the top of the Yale latch range, I prefer the Yale #1.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ll fit the PBS1 if people ask but I&#8217;ve stopped recommending them. Guessing at numbers, about 1 in 50 seem to suffer problems with the autodeadlock trigger &#8211; mostly not deadlocking the bolt when activated but once or twice deadlocking the bolt when not activated. For the vast amount of money, that&#8217;s not robust enough. At the top of the Yale latch range, I prefer the Yale #1.</p>
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		<title>By: Bernster</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/comment-page-1/#comment-6492</link>
		<dc:creator>Bernster</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jun 2011 13:41:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=747#comment-6492</guid>
		<description>Thanks for reply, actually I am replacing a Chubb 4L71 which is old and brass, I also changed cylinder so it is no longer keyed-alike. I have a glass panelled door which is triple glazed but I suppose I still need the internal key capability. Always worried about getting out in an emergency if the key was not close to hand so I suppose it is a trade-off between security and safety.

Seems main choices are the Era 1930 and the Yale PBS1, thoughts on the Yale ?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for reply, actually I am replacing a Chubb 4L71 which is old and brass, I also changed cylinder so it is no longer keyed-alike. I have a glass panelled door which is triple glazed but I suppose I still need the internal key capability. Always worried about getting out in an emergency if the key was not close to hand so I suppose it is a trade-off between security and safety.</p>
<p>Seems main choices are the Era 1930 and the Yale PBS1, thoughts on the Yale ?</p>
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		<title>By: The Locksmith</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/comment-page-1/#comment-6490</link>
		<dc:creator>The Locksmith</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jun 2011 10:08:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=747#comment-6490</guid>
		<description>I like the Chubb 4L67 but it&#039;s only available in brass finish. And you can&#039;t get replacement cylinders so if you need to change keys, all you can do is change the whole - very expensive - lock. I also like the Chubb (or whatever it&#039;s called now, Yale or Union) 4L71 but once again, it&#039;s only available in brass. And once again you can&#039;t get cylinders any more; you could up until a few months ago.

If I had to fit a chrome finish, then I would fit the ERA 1930. As I hope I said in the original post, it&#039;s a good lock. You must, however, ensure that you use the backplate fixing holes nearest the door edge; and you must ensure that you leave enough gap between the lock and the keep. And a smear of grease on the latch&#039;s &quot;bevel&quot; face every couple of months helps a lot.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I like the Chubb 4L67 but it&#8217;s only available in brass finish. And you can&#8217;t get replacement cylinders so if you need to change keys, all you can do is change the whole &#8211; very expensive &#8211; lock. I also like the Chubb (or whatever it&#8217;s called now, Yale or Union) 4L71 but once again, it&#8217;s only available in brass. And once again you can&#8217;t get cylinders any more; you could up until a few months ago.</p>
<p>If I had to fit a chrome finish, then I would fit the ERA 1930. As I hope I said in the original post, it&#8217;s a good lock. You must, however, ensure that you use the backplate fixing holes nearest the door edge; and you must ensure that you leave enough gap between the lock and the keep. And a smear of grease on the latch&#8217;s &#8220;bevel&#8221; face every couple of months helps a lot.</p>
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		<title>By: Bernster</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/comment-page-1/#comment-6488</link>
		<dc:creator>Bernster</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jun 2011 09:15:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=747#comment-6488</guid>
		<description>Hi, what would you recommend as a quality alternative to the Era 1930 that is available in a satin chrome/chrome finish ?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi, what would you recommend as a quality alternative to the Era 1930 that is available in a satin chrome/chrome finish ?</p>
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		<title>By: The Locksmith</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/comment-page-1/#comment-2121</link>
		<dc:creator>The Locksmith</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Mar 2010 19:43:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=747#comment-2121</guid>
		<description>The word I should have emphasized is &quot;gradually&quot;. There is no problem after you&#039;ve fitted it; unless, as denis says, you haven&#039;t left the right sized gap. The problem comes after a period of use. The bevelled face loses it pristine shininess, it&#039;s no longer so easily pushed in as the door shuts and gradually instead of retracting the latch, the bevel starts to bash the lock off the door.

Lubricant helps. I&#039;m afraid WD40 isn&#039;t a lubricant though; it&#039;s a water dispersant; hence the name. Teflon spray or silicone spray are more appropriate. (In fact, long term, WD40 actually becomes sticky, worsening the problem.)

The reason the connecting bar is hard, is so that it can be snapped to length. As you say, a hacksaw is a hiding to nothing; use a pair of vice grips instead.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The word I should have emphasized is &#8220;gradually&#8221;. There is no problem after you&#8217;ve fitted it; unless, as denis says, you haven&#8217;t left the right sized gap. The problem comes after a period of use. The bevelled face loses it pristine shininess, it&#8217;s no longer so easily pushed in as the door shuts and gradually instead of retracting the latch, the bevel starts to bash the lock off the door.</p>
<p>Lubricant helps. I&#8217;m afraid WD40 isn&#8217;t a lubricant though; it&#8217;s a water dispersant; hence the name. Teflon spray or silicone spray are more appropriate. (In fact, long term, WD40 actually becomes sticky, worsening the problem.)</p>
<p>The reason the connecting bar is hard, is so that it can be snapped to length. As you say, a hacksaw is a hiding to nothing; use a pair of vice grips instead.</p>
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		<title>By: denis parsons</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/comment-page-1/#comment-2120</link>
		<dc:creator>denis parsons</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Mar 2010 18:33:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=747#comment-2120</guid>
		<description>I fit these Era nightlatches all the time,and never had a problem closing the door after fitting them.
If you can&#039;t slam it shut softly,either the keep is not recessed enough,or it needs a bit of WD40 SPRAYED INTO THE LATCH.PULL THE HANDLE DOWN AND SPRAY INTO THE HOLE.ANOTHER FAULT IS IF YOU DON&#039;T CHOP OFF THE CONNECTING BAR SHORT ENOUGH(ABOUT A QUARTER OF AN INCH JUST STICKING OUT.IF THIS ISN&#039;T DONE THE LATCH WON&#039;T SPRING OUT AS A DEADBOLT.SOMETIMES THE CONNECTING BAR IS EXTRA HARD METAL WHICH MEANS YOU CAN&#039;T CUT IT WITH A HACKSAW.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I fit these Era nightlatches all the time,and never had a problem closing the door after fitting them.<br />
If you can&#8217;t slam it shut softly,either the keep is not recessed enough,or it needs a bit of WD40 SPRAYED INTO THE LATCH.PULL THE HANDLE DOWN AND SPRAY INTO THE HOLE.ANOTHER FAULT IS IF YOU DON&#8217;T CHOP OFF THE CONNECTING BAR SHORT ENOUGH(ABOUT A QUARTER OF AN INCH JUST STICKING OUT.IF THIS ISN&#8217;T DONE THE LATCH WON&#8217;T SPRING OUT AS A DEADBOLT.SOMETIMES THE CONNECTING BAR IS EXTRA HARD METAL WHICH MEANS YOU CAN&#8217;T CUT IT WITH A HACKSAW.</p>
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