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	<title>Comments on: ERA Nightlatch</title>
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	<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/</link>
	<description>Security advice from a working locksmith and safe engineer</description>
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		<title>By: The Locksmith</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/comment-page-1/#comment-2121</link>
		<dc:creator>The Locksmith</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Mar 2010 19:43:59 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>The word I should have emphasized is &quot;gradually&quot;. There is no problem after you&#039;ve fitted it; unless, as denis says, you haven&#039;t left the right sized gap. The problem comes after a period of use. The bevelled face loses it pristine shininess, it&#039;s no longer so easily pushed in as the door shuts and gradually instead of retracting the latch, the bevel starts to bash the lock off the door.

Lubricant helps. I&#039;m afraid WD40 isn&#039;t a lubricant though; it&#039;s a water dispersant; hence the name. Teflon spray or silicone spray are more appropriate. (In fact, long term, WD40 actually becomes sticky, worsening the problem.)

The reason the connecting bar is hard, is so that it can be snapped to length. As you say, a hacksaw is a hiding to nothing; use a pair of vice grips instead.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The word I should have emphasized is &#8220;gradually&#8221;. There is no problem after you&#8217;ve fitted it; unless, as denis says, you haven&#8217;t left the right sized gap. The problem comes after a period of use. The bevelled face loses it pristine shininess, it&#8217;s no longer so easily pushed in as the door shuts and gradually instead of retracting the latch, the bevel starts to bash the lock off the door.</p>
<p>Lubricant helps. I&#8217;m afraid WD40 isn&#8217;t a lubricant though; it&#8217;s a water dispersant; hence the name. Teflon spray or silicone spray are more appropriate. (In fact, long term, WD40 actually becomes sticky, worsening the problem.)</p>
<p>The reason the connecting bar is hard, is so that it can be snapped to length. As you say, a hacksaw is a hiding to nothing; use a pair of vice grips instead.</p>
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		<title>By: denis parsons</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/comment-page-1/#comment-2120</link>
		<dc:creator>denis parsons</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Mar 2010 18:33:31 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>I fit these Era nightlatches all the time,and never had a problem closing the door after fitting them.
If you can&#039;t slam it shut softly,either the keep is not recessed enough,or it needs a bit of WD40 SPRAYED INTO THE LATCH.PULL THE HANDLE DOWN AND SPRAY INTO THE HOLE.ANOTHER FAULT IS IF YOU DON&#039;T CHOP OFF THE CONNECTING BAR SHORT ENOUGH(ABOUT A QUARTER OF AN INCH JUST STICKING OUT.IF THIS ISN&#039;T DONE THE LATCH WON&#039;T SPRING OUT AS A DEADBOLT.SOMETIMES THE CONNECTING BAR IS EXTRA HARD METAL WHICH MEANS YOU CAN&#039;T CUT IT WITH A HACKSAW.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I fit these Era nightlatches all the time,and never had a problem closing the door after fitting them.<br />
If you can&#8217;t slam it shut softly,either the keep is not recessed enough,or it needs a bit of WD40 SPRAYED INTO THE LATCH.PULL THE HANDLE DOWN AND SPRAY INTO THE HOLE.ANOTHER FAULT IS IF YOU DON&#8217;T CHOP OFF THE CONNECTING BAR SHORT ENOUGH(ABOUT A QUARTER OF AN INCH JUST STICKING OUT.IF THIS ISN&#8217;T DONE THE LATCH WON&#8217;T SPRING OUT AS A DEADBOLT.SOMETIMES THE CONNECTING BAR IS EXTRA HARD METAL WHICH MEANS YOU CAN&#8217;T CUT IT WITH A HACKSAW.</p>
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