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	<title>Comments for Locksmithing and Security</title>
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	<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog</link>
	<description>Security advice from a working locksmith and safe engineer</description>
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		<title>Comment on Chris? by Locksmiths Newcastle</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/06/26/chris/comment-page-1/#comment-9147</link>
		<dc:creator>Locksmiths Newcastle</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Dec 2011 13:10:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=876#comment-9147</guid>
		<description>haha absolute class!!!!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>haha absolute class!!!!</p>
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		<title>Comment on Snibs by Neil</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/11/11/snibs/comment-page-1/#comment-8174</link>
		<dc:creator>Neil</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:54:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=921#comment-8174</guid>
		<description>I do come across this a lot, where the lock has not been fitted properly so as leaving that gap between the door and the frame, so it becomes so easy to engage the snib, but because of the gap the door still shuts, behind you. The hard part is to find out what night latch is fitted on the inside of the door, always ask the customer, but this sometimes comes up blank, many types from the old style, to the new eg Yale type you have to picture the night latch in your mind, while you decide the next step to move forward, what about the size, 40 or 60mm night latch, take the Yale you can tell the size by looking at the door to where the rim cylinder is fitted, another way is that you should have replacement night latches on your van you can show one to the customer and see if they recognise the type of latch. If this works out all is good. A quick way is to drill a small hole 4mm where the snib will be and just drill through the plate in the night latch as not to damage the snib, insert a wire and you can hook the snib housing downwards to deactivate. Repair and all is good, but on some doors, you can not do this, so you have to get the whole of the rim cylinder out by drilling the fixing screw housing and then snapping the cylinder out, leaving a 32mm hole, so now you can drill 10mm hole towards the latch side to end up close to the snib, then insert the wire.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I do come across this a lot, where the lock has not been fitted properly so as leaving that gap between the door and the frame, so it becomes so easy to engage the snib, but because of the gap the door still shuts, behind you. The hard part is to find out what night latch is fitted on the inside of the door, always ask the customer, but this sometimes comes up blank, many types from the old style, to the new eg Yale type you have to picture the night latch in your mind, while you decide the next step to move forward, what about the size, 40 or 60mm night latch, take the Yale you can tell the size by looking at the door to where the rim cylinder is fitted, another way is that you should have replacement night latches on your van you can show one to the customer and see if they recognise the type of latch. If this works out all is good. A quick way is to drill a small hole 4mm where the snib will be and just drill through the plate in the night latch as not to damage the snib, insert a wire and you can hook the snib housing downwards to deactivate. Repair and all is good, but on some doors, you can not do this, so you have to get the whole of the rim cylinder out by drilling the fixing screw housing and then snapping the cylinder out, leaving a 32mm hole, so now you can drill 10mm hole towards the latch side to end up close to the snib, then insert the wire.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Liberation by Scott</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/10/27/liberation/comment-page-1/#comment-7252</link>
		<dc:creator>Scott</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Aug 2011 21:35:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=909#comment-7252</guid>
		<description>I just had a motorcycle key made since I lost mine. The locksmith did not ask for proof of ownership, and it kind of scares me.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just had a motorcycle key made since I lost mine. The locksmith did not ask for proof of ownership, and it kind of scares me.</p>
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		<title>Comment on ERA Nightlatch by The Locksmith</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/comment-page-1/#comment-6495</link>
		<dc:creator>The Locksmith</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jun 2011 15:03:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=747#comment-6495</guid>
		<description>I&#039;ll fit the PBS1 if people ask but I&#039;ve stopped recommending them. Guessing at numbers, about 1 in 50 seem to suffer problems with the autodeadlock trigger - mostly not deadlocking the bolt when activated but once or twice deadlocking the bolt when not activated. For the vast amount of money, that&#039;s not robust enough. At the top of the Yale latch range, I prefer the Yale #1.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ll fit the PBS1 if people ask but I&#8217;ve stopped recommending them. Guessing at numbers, about 1 in 50 seem to suffer problems with the autodeadlock trigger &#8211; mostly not deadlocking the bolt when activated but once or twice deadlocking the bolt when not activated. For the vast amount of money, that&#8217;s not robust enough. At the top of the Yale latch range, I prefer the Yale #1.</p>
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		<title>Comment on ERA Nightlatch by Bernster</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/comment-page-1/#comment-6492</link>
		<dc:creator>Bernster</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jun 2011 13:41:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=747#comment-6492</guid>
		<description>Thanks for reply, actually I am replacing a Chubb 4L71 which is old and brass, I also changed cylinder so it is no longer keyed-alike. I have a glass panelled door which is triple glazed but I suppose I still need the internal key capability. Always worried about getting out in an emergency if the key was not close to hand so I suppose it is a trade-off between security and safety.

Seems main choices are the Era 1930 and the Yale PBS1, thoughts on the Yale ?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for reply, actually I am replacing a Chubb 4L71 which is old and brass, I also changed cylinder so it is no longer keyed-alike. I have a glass panelled door which is triple glazed but I suppose I still need the internal key capability. Always worried about getting out in an emergency if the key was not close to hand so I suppose it is a trade-off between security and safety.</p>
<p>Seems main choices are the Era 1930 and the Yale PBS1, thoughts on the Yale ?</p>
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		<title>Comment on ERA Nightlatch by The Locksmith</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/comment-page-1/#comment-6490</link>
		<dc:creator>The Locksmith</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jun 2011 10:08:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=747#comment-6490</guid>
		<description>I like the Chubb 4L67 but it&#039;s only available in brass finish. And you can&#039;t get replacement cylinders so if you need to change keys, all you can do is change the whole - very expensive - lock. I also like the Chubb (or whatever it&#039;s called now, Yale or Union) 4L71 but once again, it&#039;s only available in brass. And once again you can&#039;t get cylinders any more; you could up until a few months ago.

If I had to fit a chrome finish, then I would fit the ERA 1930. As I hope I said in the original post, it&#039;s a good lock. You must, however, ensure that you use the backplate fixing holes nearest the door edge; and you must ensure that you leave enough gap between the lock and the keep. And a smear of grease on the latch&#039;s &quot;bevel&quot; face every couple of months helps a lot.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I like the Chubb 4L67 but it&#8217;s only available in brass finish. And you can&#8217;t get replacement cylinders so if you need to change keys, all you can do is change the whole &#8211; very expensive &#8211; lock. I also like the Chubb (or whatever it&#8217;s called now, Yale or Union) 4L71 but once again, it&#8217;s only available in brass. And once again you can&#8217;t get cylinders any more; you could up until a few months ago.</p>
<p>If I had to fit a chrome finish, then I would fit the ERA 1930. As I hope I said in the original post, it&#8217;s a good lock. You must, however, ensure that you use the backplate fixing holes nearest the door edge; and you must ensure that you leave enough gap between the lock and the keep. And a smear of grease on the latch&#8217;s &#8220;bevel&#8221; face every couple of months helps a lot.</p>
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		<title>Comment on ERA Nightlatch by Bernster</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/01/06/era-nightlatch/comment-page-1/#comment-6488</link>
		<dc:creator>Bernster</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jun 2011 09:15:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=747#comment-6488</guid>
		<description>Hi, what would you recommend as a quality alternative to the Era 1930 that is available in a satin chrome/chrome finish ?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi, what would you recommend as a quality alternative to the Era 1930 that is available in a satin chrome/chrome finish ?</p>
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		<title>Comment on Snibs by denis</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/11/11/snibs/comment-page-1/#comment-5159</link>
		<dc:creator>denis</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 10 Apr 2011 16:46:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=921#comment-5159</guid>
		<description>One of the worst things you can come across when the snib has dropped is wondering what latchbox is on the inside.If it can be got at through the letterbox all well and good, but if it&#039;s a flat door with no letterbox you&#039;ve got to rely on the tenant to tell you what the colour and length of the box is.Now half the time they don&#039;t know so your on your own to guess.You can use a scope with a light source,but this needs a hole to be drilled.I usually plump for a traditional yale nightlatch(measure 1 1/4&quot; from the centre of the plug to the right hand side) this will bring it right on the rivet of the snib.But what if it&#039;s a copy of a trad yale nightlatch.If there isn&#039;t any &quot;yale&quot; stamped on the handle it&#039;s a copy and the snib button is the opposite of the yale.I mean here that it locks you out if it&#039;s up on the right hand side of the door(from outside).If you cannot establish this with the customer be wary.The better way of opening is to prise away the beading on the frame and using an &quot;L&quot; shaped wire to knock up or down the snib.You can&#039;t do this if the gap is tight.You will have to make a gap to open it.There will always be some damage doing this sort of job,but it&#039;s better than drilling the door twice.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>One of the worst things you can come across when the snib has dropped is wondering what latchbox is on the inside.If it can be got at through the letterbox all well and good, but if it&#8217;s a flat door with no letterbox you&#8217;ve got to rely on the tenant to tell you what the colour and length of the box is.Now half the time they don&#8217;t know so your on your own to guess.You can use a scope with a light source,but this needs a hole to be drilled.I usually plump for a traditional yale nightlatch(measure 1 1/4&#8243; from the centre of the plug to the right hand side) this will bring it right on the rivet of the snib.But what if it&#8217;s a copy of a trad yale nightlatch.If there isn&#8217;t any &#8220;yale&#8221; stamped on the handle it&#8217;s a copy and the snib button is the opposite of the yale.I mean here that it locks you out if it&#8217;s up on the right hand side of the door(from outside).If you cannot establish this with the customer be wary.The better way of opening is to prise away the beading on the frame and using an &#8220;L&#8221; shaped wire to knock up or down the snib.You can&#8217;t do this if the gap is tight.You will have to make a gap to open it.There will always be some damage doing this sort of job,but it&#8217;s better than drilling the door twice.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Chris? by danny cusworth</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/06/26/chris/comment-page-1/#comment-4818</link>
		<dc:creator>danny cusworth</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Mar 2011 09:30:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=876#comment-4818</guid>
		<description>very funny lol!, also, the classic &quot;my proof of address is in the flat, when we get in I&#039;ll show you&quot;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>very funny lol!, also, the classic &#8220;my proof of address is in the flat, when we get in I&#8217;ll show you&#8221;</p>
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		<title>Comment on Tight Doors by The Locksmith</title>
		<link>http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/2010/10/16/tight-doors/comment-page-1/#comment-3463</link>
		<dc:creator>The Locksmith</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Oct 2010 21:37:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clapham-locksmiths.co.uk/blog/?p=906#comment-3463</guid>
		<description>Can&#039;t say that I have found much of an improvement. The thing is that there are so many blogs. And it&#039;s not easy to tell what it is that makes a difference. But if you have something to say and enjoy saying it, it can&#039;t do any harm.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Can&#8217;t say that I have found much of an improvement. The thing is that there are so many blogs. And it&#8217;s not easy to tell what it is that makes a difference. But if you have something to say and enjoy saying it, it can&#8217;t do any harm.</p>
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